Plastic welding book update.


It is now possible to purchase a copy of our Plastic Welding Guide Direct, just click on the high lighted words which will take you to blurb.

plasweld_book

The fun and games we had producing the book were posted sometime ago with that in mind this link will take you to that post.

You can also find a link on the web site Plasweld

 

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GSX 750 Katana Pop up head light plastic renovation.


gsxpop1

Even though plastic welding has been around since the seventies it is still surprising when a faring from that era comes in, how much fibre glass has been used to patch up the damaged areas. We were asked if it was possible to repair the plastic panel on a GSX 750 Katana the one with the pop up head light.

From what I have already said you would have gathered that these panels were in a bit of a state. Of all the farings that turned up it was the left and right side nose panels ( the nose cone in this case is divided into three section two sides and a gsxpopglasstopBezel that fitted around the pop up head light) that presented the biggest challenge. The customer wisely turned up with two panels for each side. The problem was to work out how much of each panel was the original plastic and which pair had the least fibre glass holding it together.

Fortunately the headlight bezel only had a cross shape lug missing. In itself not a difficult repair but time consuming to reproduce. All the side panels were heavily damaged whgsxrepairmissingglassere the side mirrors would be mounted. One of which had a big bit missing.

The first thing that needed to be done was to get rid of the large quantity of fibre glass from the damaged areas. Once it had been ground off the outside of the panel. The stuff caked over the inside was gently persuaded to leave home, coming away in one piece. Almost leaving it clean enough to weld. It just go’s to show if it had not been fibre glass both sides it would have fallen out ages ago.

gsxpopupundersideglass

The one thing plastic welding does not like is contamination of any kind. Which meant we had to remove as much of the residue as possible to be sure it would repair properly.

gsxrepairnoglass

 

Once that was done new plastic was cut into shapes to replace all the missing bits. Because alot of the damage was concentrated in one place we had to be careful about over heating. By phasing the repair it would keep the heat shrink to a minimum, making for a better repair over all. You also have to take into account when renovating old plastic it has a gsxheadlightbezeltendency to get very brittle. A way round it is to temper the area with some heat before you start welding it together. This also helps to drive out any water that the plastic has soaked up over the years. This leads to a stronger weld and a satisfied customer.

gsxrweldedup

 

Plastic welding book update.


It is now possible to purchase a copy of our Plastic Welding Guide Direct, just click on the high lighted words which will take you to blurb.

plasweld_book

The fun and games we had producing the book were posted sometime ago with that in mind this link will take you to that post.

You can also find a link on the web site Plasweld

 

Foam backing


foamback-panel

When considering whether or not a panel is worth repairing you need to take a number of things into account: Paint, decals, age and in some cases the foam backing.

Some manufacturers stick foam to the back of their side panels to stop the engine/frame work rubbing against the back of the faring. It also stops any knocking noises and vibration while the bike is being ridden. When a panel sustains damage resulting in a crack or breakage or both, it does not always transfer to the foam behind. Even if it has not, the foam needs to be removed to do a repair. Where plastic welding is used the heat from the machine will melt the foam giving of a noxious gas. In most cases we can separate the foam in one piece from the plastic panel. So it can be reattached after the repair is compete, there by saving the cost of new foam for the customer.

foamback-panel2There are some situations where it can not be removed in one piece. Foam, like plastic, deteriorates with age but at a faster rate. There are two types of foam backing – open cell and sealed. The former gets impregnated with road dirt, oil etc, this helps to degrade the backing more quickly turning it to dust, making it impossible to remove in some cases. Because the later is sealed it repels most of the detritus thrown up from the road and stops oil soaking into it. This increases the life of the foam, therefore making it a better candidate for removal when a repair is needed. The sealing helps to keep it in one piece making it easier to remove.

The pictures show.

Thunder cat side panel. One with the foam mat partly removed.

Plastic welding book.


Free_hand_weldingWe have just finished putting together a guide on plastic welding. This is an insight into what went on. 

Sometime a go it was suggested that we write a book. I cannot believe that it has been four years since. It is a guide and to be honest the amount of time and effort need to pull a mere twenty five pages together is astounding. So I take my hat off to all those who write ten time plus this. 

For starters this being a guide it needed pictures of the tools, welding equipment and the different stages you needed to go through to reach the finished article. So a plan was put in place to get the photos needed to illustrate what we were describing. Initially pictures were going to be taken of the various jobs we were doing for our customers at differing stages of completion. But after viewing a selection of these we changed our minds because it did not look right. While all that was being done the tools etc were being set up and photographed. At least this part of the job was going OK.

Then life through a spanner in the works making it impossible to continue with the project so it went on the back burner temporally. Some two year later yes I know two year. Anyway we now had time to complete the book. It is funny how time changes

Material-test

things all the pictures we had taken in the past were scraped they no longer suited our purpose which meant starting all over again. It did make me wonder if they were the right pictures in the first place.

The guide now had a new structure all the headings had been finalised and out lines of what should be included set out. Great the book was coming on in leaps and bounds. Even so it took months to write such a small number of words. The pictures took no time at all to do this time because we set up a special job that we could be photographed at each stage when we had the time between other work. These pictures look no different from those we took first time round but there is a continuity that was missing from the first selection.

This was always going to be a self publish job and after looking on the net we decided to go with blurb.  A decision we are starting to regret. It is always difficult when doing something for the first time and involving new software. All the blurb said it was easy to use and you could be done in a couple of hours, to be honest I took that with a pinch of salt. Just as well I did. It was a pain to use even when I got the hang of it. One of the biggest pains was it would not accept the table of setting we had put together it did not matter what we did it went wrong even when I rewrote the whole thing into the page. Man the air was blue. But we got round it.

The best part of a month went by before the lay out of the book was alright. It was checked five times and each time we found that some of the text was a different point

plasweld_book

size. Two of those times two of us checked it at the same time and found fault. I is still not completely right but had a copy printed anyway.

A week or so later we received a book shaped package at the workshop. I have to say it was not what I was expecting. Having said that it is great little book for our first attempt. At this point I would like to thank all those who were involved and apologise for the blue air

.

 

Huge savings.


It has been pointed out to us that maybe our £35 starting price is not that well understood so I am hoping that this article will make it a lot more transparent.

This is how the web site puts it across We have a starting price of £35 per job no matter how many parts you send to us.

NC 24 nose cone

NC 24 nose cone

So what are we saying?

If you give us one broken part it is going to cost at least £35. Now if you have two broken parts and give us both at the same time we believe that you are all assuming that it is going to cost you from £70 when in fact it may save you £15 +. Say you give us three parts at the same time what then? That could mean a saving of £25+ and four parts £35+ There is an accumulative affect to the number of parts you give us at once. That is why we say it is priced per job and not per part.

two-panels

There are some thing’s to take in to account, all the examples are based on a basic repair, if you deicide to enhance the finish then the savings decrease. Also the complexity of the repair affects the price; ie if all the parts are broken in three then the amount of saving will be next to nothing or may cost even more. The savings are not infinite and beyond that point there is no further reduction. On average when someone sends or gives us a multi part repair ( job ) they get a saving, this is because the parts have differing degrees of damage which allows our customers to make savings.

multi-panels

Come closer Shhhh! While no one is listening, I should not be telling you this but you could get together with your friends and send or give us a number of parts collectively then all of you will benefit from the reduced price but don’t let on that I have told you. It will be our secret.